A recent trip to the city of Oaxaca for Hubby’s birthday was a 48-hour whirlwind of culinary and cultural experiences. We had planned a three night getaway to this magical city, but unexpected storm activity left us stranded in Houston for a night amid power outages and tornado warmings. I am grateful that we had these 48 hours, considering we could have had none. Fortunately, our close friend Beto Rios, a well-known food writer and photographer, is familiar with the city and organized an amazing schedule for us.
Oaxaca City is the capital of the state of Oaxaca and lies 5,000 feet above sea level. Inhabited for centuries by pre-Columbian civilizations such as Zapotec, Mixtec, and Aztec, Oaxaca was officially declared a city in 1529 by Hernán Cortéz. From exquisite dining experiences to exploring ancient ruins, Oaxaca offers a rich tapestry of experiences that truly captures the heart and soul of Mexico. If you love mole, maize, and mezcal, Oaxaca is the place for you. Here’s a glimpse into our adventures and a curated list of must-visit places for anyone planning a trip to this enchanting area of Mexico.
Where We Stayed
From Texas, there is a direct flight into the Oaxaca International Airport from both Dallas and Houston. Our home base was Casa Oaxaca, a charming boutique hotel with seven rooms that blends traditional Oaxacan style with modern comforts. Opened in 1997, this beautiful retreat is owned by the renowned chef Alejandro Ruiz, a passionate ambassador of Oaxacan cuisine. Alejandro Ruiz has gained international acclaim for his dedication to preserving and showcasing the rich culinary heritage of Oaxaca. He travels the world, lecturing on the intricate art of Oaxacan mole, and his influence is evident in every aspect of Casa Oaxaca.
**Note: You can purchase one of Alejandro Ruiz’s cookbooks on Amazon.
Culinary Adventures
Oaxaca is a food lover’s paradise, and — thanks in large part to our compadre Beto — we indulged in some of the best culinary experiences the city has to offer:
- Las Barbacoas de México: Our first stop after landing and conveniently close to the airport (and an Alejandro Ruiz restaurant), Las Barbacoas de Mexico is a fantastic spot for traditional Mexican BBQ and Oaxacan specialties such as memelas (corn masa tortillas topped with Oaxacan queso and barbacoa), tlayudas (large, thin, crunchy, fried or toasted tortillas covered with queso Oaxaca and barbacoa), and tetelas (small, triangular pockets of corn masa filled with barbacoa).
- Ancestral: A unique dining experience highlighting indigenous ingredients and ancient cooking methods. Since 2017, Chef Miguel Mijangos has presented classical flavors inspired by his grandmother and his childhood, such as guajalote en mole de cacahuate (turkey in a peanut sauce) and tostada de chapulín y gusanos de maguey (tostadas topped with grasshoppers and worms). It is important to note that in Oaxacan cuisine, edible insects like chapulines (grasshoppers), chicatanas (flying ants), and gusanos (worms) are prized for their unique flavors and high nutritional value, and play a significant role in traditional dishes. I feel it is important to respect this and to try a few…you may even find that you like it!
- Crudo A ten-seater omakase restaurant by Chef Ricardo Arellano that combines Japanese cuisine with Oaxacan flavors. This intimate dining experience features fresh, locally sourced seafood prepared with Oaxacan spices and produce, offering quite possibly one of the most unique experiences you will find in Oaxaca.
- OaxaCalifornia: Another Alejandro Ruiz restaurant, and this one blends the vibrant flavors of Oaxacan cuisine with the innovative touches of Californian culinary traditions. The menu features dishes that highlight fresh, locally sourced ingredients, combining Oaxacan staples like mole with Californian elements such as avocados and seafood. I had a delicious tostada overflowing with octopus, shrimp, and fish ceviche that lived up to its name of tostada embarazada (pregnant tostada).
- Cobarde: A restaurant focused on dishes using open-flame cooking and gastronomic influences from Eastern Europe and Asia. Chef Pako Cortés, with his experience from kitchens in Japan to New York, weaves in international flavors from chicken dumplings that are deboned and stuffed in gochujang to the octopus and bone marrow with habanero sauce. The terrace at Cobarde overlooks the Santo Domingo cathedral is one of the prettiest views in the city.
We were fortunate to dine at Casa Oaxaca, where we enjoyed the stunning Sunday brunch featuring Chef Ruiz’s world-class mole.
Another highlight was Meeting Olga Cabrera at her restaurant, Tierra del Sol; her expertise on maize was both fascinating and enlightening. Pro tip: a chef’s table experience here would be fantastic.
Exploring Oaxaca
Our adventures in Oaxaca were as diverse as its cuisine. Here are some of the highlights:
- Monte Albán: These archeological ruins are a must-see. The ancient city offers breathtaking views over the valley below and a deep dive into the region’s pre-Hispanic history.
- Real Minero: Visiting this exquisite mezcal palenque was an unforgettable experience. The craftsmanship and dedication to quality mezcal were evident in every sip.
- Selva: One of the top 50 cocktail bars in the world, Selva impressed us with its creative cocktails and vibrant atmosphere.
Recommended Places to Stay
For those planning a trip to Oaxaca, here are some top recommendations for accommodations:
- Casa Oaxaca
- Pug Seal
- Casa Silencio
- Hotel Casa Santo Origen
- Otro Oaxaca
- Hotel Los Amantes
- Hotel Escondido
- Quinta Real
Dining Recommendations
Oaxaca’s culinary scene is vast and varied. In addition to the places we visited, here are some other must-try spots:
- Itanoní: Known for its traditional corn-based dishes.
- Levadura de Olla: Offers a modern take on Oaxacan cuisine.
- Los Danzantes: A staple in Oaxaca, famous for its innovative dishes.
- Mercado Morelos: Perfect for experiencing local flavors and street food.
Shopping in Oaxaca
Oaxaca is a treasure trove of artisanal crafts. Here are some top places to shop for unique souvenirs:
- Los Baúles de Juana Cata: For beautiful textiles and clothing.
- Mercado de Artesanías de Santa María Atzompa: A hub for stunning ceramics.
- Miku Meko Atelier: Offers textiles and clothing like kaftans and robes and Japanese inspired kimonos.
- Piedra de Río Tiendita de Barro: Known for its pottery, featured at Levadura de Olla.
For those of you dreaming about the textiles of Mexico but cannot visit the country, I encourage you to look at the website of Christina Lynch, a fellow Texan and founder of Mi Golondrina in Dallas.
Sights and Activities
There is no shortage of things to see and do in Oaxaca. Here are some must-visit attractions and activities:
- Zócalo: The zócalo is traditionally the heart of the city, and the one in Oaxaca has sadly been taken over by a tent city of protests. I include this here to advise you to avoid staying near it.
- Monte Albán: See above.
- Mezcalería In Situ: Ideal for mezcal enthusiasts.
- Palenques: Discover the traditional process of mezcal making. I encourage you to ask your hotel concierge for advice in seeking out one of the smaller, non-commercial palenques with a more sustainable worldview of mezcal.
- Jardín Etnobotánico de Oaxaca: A beautiful garden showcasing the region’s diverse plant life.
- Santo Domingo Square: A lively square perfect for evening strolls and enjoying the local atmosphere. This is the place to be in lieu of the Zócalo.
Oaxaca truly has something for everyone, and our trip was filled with unforgettable moments and experiences with old friends and new ones. Whether you’re a foodie, a history buff, or just looking to immerse yourself in vibrant culture, I encourage you to put Oaxaca at the top of your travel list. xoM
